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src/posts/2023/2023-10-08-leatherworking.md
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@@ -18,51 +18,51 @@ If I have linked a tool, I really like that specific tool and find it stands out
- (need to have) some kind of scratch awl for marking
- (need to have) cutproof mat
- (need to have basically whenever you are using a mallet) ["poundo board" or cutting board](https://www.buckleguy.com/cutting-board-multiple-sizes/){target="_blank" rel="external"} (this is just an example, I got mine elsewhere) - importantly, this is distinct from your cutproof mat. you *can* use this in place of your cutproof mat but it tends to pick up a lot of punctures which can leave indents in your leather with pressure - so I only use mine for mallet-ing and otherwise use my cutproof mat
- (nice to have) [pattern plastic](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/pattern-sheet-24-x-45){target="_blank" rel="external"} - but like I said above you can use non-corrugated cardboard
- (nice to have) [acrylic leather thickness gauge](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-acrylic-tool-leather-thickness-gauge/){target="_blank" rel="external"} - but you can also just use a ruler or calipers, or learn to gauge by eye/feel
- (need to have basically whenever you are using a mallet) ["poundo board" or cutting board](https://www.buckleguy.com/cutting-board-multiple-sizes/) (this is just an example, I got mine elsewhere) - importantly, this is distinct from your cutproof mat. you *can* use this in place of your cutproof mat but it tends to pick up a lot of punctures which can leave indents in your leather with pressure - so I only use mine for mallet-ing and otherwise use my cutproof mat
- (nice to have) [pattern plastic](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/pattern-sheet-24-x-45) - but like I said above you can use non-corrugated cardboard
- (nice to have) [acrylic leather thickness gauge](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-acrylic-tool-leather-thickness-gauge/) - but you can also just use a ruler or calipers, or learn to gauge by eye/feel
### cutting
- (need to have) metal cork-backed ruler (cork backing will keep it from slip-sliding around)
- (nice to have, but any sharp blade will do) [ergo kiwi knife](https://www.buckleguy.com/ergo-kiwi-knife-2-0/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- (nice to have, but any sharp blade will do) [ergo kiwi knife](https://www.buckleguy.com/ergo-kiwi-knife-2-0/)
- (nice to have for harnesses, belts) strap cutter
- (nice to have for small objects with a lot of layers at the seams, like wallets) skiving knife of some kind. there's a lot of different types out there. I have a CS Osborne leather knife and I don't love it, but idk if that's just because I am still learning how to skive.
- you're supposed to skive on a fucken [rock](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/marble-tooling-slab){target="_blank" rel="external"} so as not to absolutely wreck your cutproof mat. I haven't got my rock yet but I haven't ruined my mat yet either.
- ok so I got a [skiving knife](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/flat-leather-knife){target="_blank" rel="external"} from Weaver and it *definitely* beats out the CS Osborne leather knife
- you're supposed to skive on a fucken [rock](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/marble-tooling-slab) so as not to absolutely wreck your cutproof mat. I haven't got my rock yet but I haven't ruined my mat yet either.
- ok so I got a [skiving knife](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/flat-leather-knife) from Weaver and it *definitely* beats out the CS Osborne leather knife
### edging and burnishing
- (nice to have) edge beveler
- (need to have) sandpaper in maybe two grits. I have 100 and 600 sitting around right now
- (need to have) some small pieces of heavy canvas
- (nice to have) [tokonole!!!](https://www.buckleguy.com/seiwa-tokonole-leather-burnishing-gum-multiple-sizes-colors/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- (nice to have) [tokonole!!!](https://www.buckleguy.com/seiwa-tokonole-leather-burnishing-gum-multiple-sizes-colors/)
- tokonole can even burnish chrome tan leather and flesh side of veg tan
- (nice to have) [wooden edge burnishing tool](https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-edge-slicker-burnishing-tool-beech-wood/){target="_blank" rel="external"} but tbh I find myself just using canvas instead of my burnishing tool
- (nice to have) [wooden edge burnishing tool](https://www.buckleguy.com/leather-edge-slicker-burnishing-tool-beech-wood/) but tbh I find myself just using canvas instead of my burnishing tool
- you can also use wooden tool handles, if you have for example an edge beveler with a wooden handle sitting around
- (nice to have/need to have if you don't get tokonole) beeswax
- (nice to have) [micro spatula](https://www.dickblick.com/items/lineco-micro-spatula-flat/){target="_blank" rel="external"} - I bought this for bookbinding but I find it useful for applying tokonole or doing other odd lil jobs
- (nice to have) [micro spatula](https://www.dickblick.com/items/lineco-micro-spatula-flat/) - I bought this for bookbinding but I find it useful for applying tokonole or doing other odd lil jobs
### punching
- (need to have) a mallet or something for hitting things. yes there are $100 mauls you can buy. idk a shitty mallet is working fine for me so far
- alright i splurged on a maul and it was worth it. dammit.
- (nice to have) [japanese push drill](https://www.talasonline.com/Japanese-Push-Drill){target="_blank" rel="external"} and [bits](https://www.talasonline.com/Japanese-Push-Drill-Replacement-Bits){:target="_blank"}
- if you don't want to go in on a $50 push drill, start with just some simple [single-hole punches](https://www.buckleguy.com/245-belt-punch-multiple-sizes/){target="_blank" rel="external"} or a [rotary punch](https://www.buckleguy.com/223-revolving-punch/){:target="_blank"}. rotary punches are pretty heavily recommended since they come with a range of punch sizes; I avoid them like the plague because I have small shitty hands and I think those would pair poorly with a rotary punch.
- (nice to have) [japanese push drill](https://www.talasonline.com/Japanese-Push-Drill) and [bits](https://www.talasonline.com/Japanese-Push-Drill-Replacement-Bits)
- if you don't want to go in on a $50 push drill, start with just some simple [single-hole punches](https://www.buckleguy.com/245-belt-punch-multiple-sizes/) or a [rotary punch](https://www.buckleguy.com/223-revolving-punch/). rotary punches are pretty heavily recommended since they come with a range of punch sizes; I avoid them like the plague because I have small shitty hands and I think those would pair poorly with a rotary punch.
- if you're going to be attaching buckles, you'll need oblong holes for the buckle tongue. two options:
- punch a standard hole at each end of your eventual oblong, then using a ruler and sharp small blade cut between those holes to create your oblong
![A small piece of leather showing the steps to creating an oblong hole. First there is just a straight 1-inch line drawn by scratch awl. Holes are punched at both ends of that line. Two cuts are made coming from the right-side hole inwards (shown by arrows), about halfway. Similar cuts are then made from the left-hand hole inwards to meet them.](/img/2023/oblong-punch-alternative.jpg)
- get an [oblong punch](https://www.buckleguy.com/151-bag-punch-multiple-sizes/){target="_blank" rel="external"}. shaped punches are *expensive as shit* but if you're doing more than a few buckles this is worth it.
- another shaped punch: the [english point strap end punch](https://www.buckleguy.com/0150-strap-end-punch-english-point-multiple-sizes-1/){target="_blank" rel="external"}. I don't own this yet but am heavily considering it if I am going to make more harnesses (and I am). you don't specifically need english point - there's other strap end styles - but having *a* strap end punch in the size of your choosing is useful for harnesses, belts, anything with a lot of straps.
- get an [oblong punch](https://www.buckleguy.com/151-bag-punch-multiple-sizes/). shaped punches are *expensive as shit* but if you're doing more than a few buckles this is worth it.
- another shaped punch: the [english point strap end punch](https://www.buckleguy.com/0150-strap-end-punch-english-point-multiple-sizes-1/). I don't own this yet but am heavily considering it if I am going to make more harnesses (and I am). you don't specifically need english point - there's other strap end styles - but having *a* strap end punch in the size of your choosing is useful for harnesses, belts, anything with a lot of straps.
- with strap end punches, you can use a larger punch on a smaller strap (for an imperfect result, tbf) but not vice versa
- there are also strap end acrylic templates out there on several retailers sites - I have a tandy one
### riveting, snapping, etc
- for any given size/brand of rivets, you can usually buy a [setter](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-rivet-setter-9-2mm-concave-end/){target="_blank" rel="external"} and [anvil](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-rivet-setter-base-for-9-2-11-13mm-cap-rivets/){:target="_blank"} for maybe $25 together
- for any given size/brand of rivets, you can usually buy a [setter](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-rivet-setter-9-2mm-concave-end/) and [anvil](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-rivet-setter-base-for-9-2-11-13mm-cap-rivets/) for maybe $25 together
- also I have one extra of both of those specific linked items, so if you're short on cash lmk and I will ship em to ya - since I have switched over to the next option
- however, if you think you might get really into leatherworking, or if you think you will be getting multiple sizes of rivets, attaching snaps, attaching other types of rivet-style clasps, whatever, I would highly recommend [this setter post and base](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-post-base-for-screw-in-dies/){target="_blank" rel="external"} and [a rivet setter die](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-rivet-setter-die-multiple-sizes-requires-hand-tool-post-base-or-bg-hand-press/){:target="_blank"} or whichever setter die you need for your specific thing
- these dies also work with [larger presses](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-180-convertible-hand-or-foot-press/){target="_blank" rel="external"} and make it much more possible to transition from a hand press to a full press without having to re-buy all your dies
- however, if you think you might get really into leatherworking, or if you think you will be getting multiple sizes of rivets, attaching snaps, attaching other types of rivet-style clasps, whatever, I would highly recommend [this setter post and base](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-setter-post-base-for-screw-in-dies/) and [a rivet setter die](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-rivet-setter-die-multiple-sizes-requires-hand-tool-post-base-or-bg-hand-press/) or whichever setter die you need for your specific thing
- these dies also work with [larger presses](https://www.buckleguy.com/bg-180-convertible-hand-or-foot-press/) and make it much more possible to transition from a hand press to a full press without having to re-buy all your dies
- according to Corter Leather at the very least (I don't really have the experience to make a full comparison) this system is much more reliable for well-balanced, well-rounded rivets, snaps, etc
### stitching
@@ -71,9 +71,9 @@ If I have linked a tool, I really like that specific tool and find it stands out
- (need to have) stitching chisels! if you want to save some money, you mostly need the 6-tooth and the 2-tooth - 6 for straightaways, 2 for curves. I occasionally use my 4-tooth and *very* occasionally use my 1-tooth (except for zippers. if you wanna do zippers get a 1-tooth).
- my stitching chisels are 4mm spacing. I picked this pretty arbitrarily :)
- technically you could just buy a diamond awl or a 1-tooth chisel and poke each hole individually and that *would* be cheaper but oh my god love yourself
- (nice to have, any needles will do but oh my god these are pretty hashtag worth) [cs osborne harness needles, blunt tip](https://www.buckleguy.com/517-harness-needles-for-hand-sewing-blunt-tip-5-needles/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- (need to have) thread - I am using [Ritza 25 Tiger Thread](https://www.buckleguy.com/ritza-25-tiger-thread/){target="_blank" rel="external"} (currently I have the 1.0mm size. I find it a little large and will probably size down when I order other colors - update, sized down to .8 and even have some .6 - much preferable) and have also used [MeiSi Superfine Linen Thread](https://threadsofmeisi.com/collections/meisi-superfine-linen-threads){:target="_blank"} but polyester threads are easier to seal off with a lighter
- (nice to have) some kind of [silicone needle puller](https://www.joann.com/needle-pullers-3-pkg/3500295.html){target="_blank" rel="external"} (I don't actually have this one, I was having trouble finding what I have - little pink finger covers that are all grippy) for gripping needles. or just use the back of a mousepad? or something?
- (nice to have, any needles will do but oh my god these are pretty hashtag worth) [cs osborne harness needles, blunt tip](https://www.buckleguy.com/517-harness-needles-for-hand-sewing-blunt-tip-5-needles/)
- (need to have) thread - I am using [Ritza 25 Tiger Thread](https://www.buckleguy.com/ritza-25-tiger-thread/) (currently I have the 1.0mm size. I find it a little large and will probably size down when I order other colors - update, sized down to .8 and even have some .6 - much preferable) and have also used [MeiSi Superfine Linen Thread](https://threadsofmeisi.com/collections/meisi-superfine-linen-threads) but polyester threads are easier to seal off with a lighter
- (nice to have) some kind of [silicone needle puller](https://www.joann.com/needle-pullers-3-pkg/3500295.html) (I don't actually have this one, I was having trouble finding what I have - little pink finger covers that are all grippy) for gripping needles. or just use the back of a mousepad? or something?
### tool care
@@ -86,24 +86,24 @@ If I have linked a tool, I really like that specific tool and find it stands out
- (need to have) a beveler. I have a smooth beveler at the moment, but am waiting on a checked beveler in the mail as I think I will like that look better
- (need to have) as mentioned previously, mallet or maul
- (nice to have) literally any other stamps i guess
- (nice to have) templates! it really helps to start out with some designs made for swivel knife. I got a few (both free and paid) from [dadhands](https://www.dadhands.ca/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- (nice to have) templates! it really helps to start out with some designs made for swivel knife. I got a few (both free and paid) from [dadhands](https://www.dadhands.ca/)
### zippers
- okay so I bought them because they are pretty but these [rainbow zippers](https://www.buckleguy.com/riri-zipper-continuous-chain-combi-eloxal-teeth-elox/){target="_blank" rel="external"} actually make it so much easier because you can differentiate each tooth from the next!!!
- (nice to have) tape such as [ted's tape](https://www.buckleguy.com/double-sided-tape/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- okay so I bought them because they are pretty but these [rainbow zippers](https://www.buckleguy.com/riri-zipper-continuous-chain-combi-eloxal-teeth-elox/) actually make it so much easier because you can differentiate each tooth from the next!!!
- (nice to have) tape such as [ted's tape](https://www.buckleguy.com/double-sided-tape/)
## resources
- [Corter Leather on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@Corter){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [Leodis Leather on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@Leodis.Leather){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [dadhands on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@dadhands){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [Maju T Works on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@majutworks){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [Corter Leather on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@Corter)
- [Leodis Leather on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@Leodis.Leather)
- [dadhands on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@dadhands)
- [Maju T Works on YouTube](https://www.youtube.com/@majutworks)
## retailers
- [buckleguy](https://www.buckleguy.com/){target="_blank" rel="external"} has been super speedy and reliable so far - for sure my favorite
- [springfield leather](https://www.springfieldleather.com/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [tandy](https://tandyleather.com/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [weaver leather supply](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [longview leather (canada)](https://www.longviewleather.com/){target="_blank" rel="external"}
- [buckleguy](https://www.buckleguy.com/) has been super speedy and reliable so far - for sure my favorite
- [springfield leather](https://www.springfieldleather.com/)
- [tandy](https://tandyleather.com/)
- [weaver leather supply](https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/)
- [longview leather (canada)](https://www.longviewleather.com/)