leatherworking zine

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This page contains textual representation of and supplementary material for my Leatherworking Tools zine (purchase link to be added in the future), including links to all tools and additional information as needed.

On tool links

Please note that links are examples, and you do not need the precise model linked. Where possible, I have found cheaper versions of tools - for example, you can get a fancy mallet or maul (they are nice), or you can get a 16oz or 32oz hardware store rubber mallet. I have linked the hardware store version.

Some things, like thread or rivets, come in other colors or finishes. Feel free to explore; I have linked only one.

Retailers

Please note that I am familiar with US retailers, and cannot make recommendations for other countries.

My favorite leatherworking retailer is Buckleguy. They offer tools, hardware, leather, supplies, etc. and are generally extremely high quality with good customer service.

Occasionally, I will link other retailers such as Tandy (a common retailer, but with products that may be lower quality - great for bulk leather for prototype and practice though!), Weaver, or Springfield. I will also link to non-leather specific retailers such as Blick and Ace Hardware as is relevant.

Cover

The front and back cover spread is patterned with many small icons of leatherworking tools and explanatory diagrams in dark pink. Dark teal text reads "Leatherworking tools" "by Lee," and, on the back "2026."

Page 1: Basics

• Scratch awl for marking
  • Do not use a pen/sharpie/similar for marking as it will very much show on the finished product
• Pattern plastic for templating
• Leather thickness gauge for measuring
  • You can also use calipers and a table of sizes, but this is very handy

Page 2: Cut

• Craft knife
  • Replace blades often
• Non-slip metal ruler
  • Metal is a must if you don't want to cut into your ruler
• Cutproof mat
• Strap end template

If you're cutting a curve, make many straight cuts rather than one curved cut.

Page 3: Burnish

My core tools

• Canvas
  • Of course you can just go find some at a fabric store, but this lets you buy just a few small pieces
• Tokonole
  • You'll want clear Tokonole
  • Shake before use
  • You can apply this with a bit of cloth, wool dauber, micro spatula, etc... I just use my finger

Other potential tools

• Edge beveler
  • Proper finished edges should be beveled, but you can get away without this when starting
• Sandpaper
  • Grit varies; use significantly higher grits for final finish
• Beeswax

Page 4: Punch

• Cutting board
  • Don't use hole punches on your cutproof mat!
• Mallet
  • Mauls are also an option
• Single hole punches, or...
• Rotary punch
  • If you choose a rotary punch, you don't need the cutting board and mallet (at least for this)
  • I find rotary punches are too big for my small hands! So I prefer single hole punches
• Oblong punches
  • If you're setting buckles, you might want this, or...

Simulating an oblong punch

1. Plan: draw your oblong shape. You'll probably want it about as long as your leather strap is wide, and the width should be determined by the width of the buckle tongue
2. Punch two holes: punch a hole at each end of the oblong
3. Cut from one side halfway in: from one hole, cut halfway through the oblong
4. Cut remainder of line from other side: meet your existing cut
5. Success!

Page 6: Stitch

• Wing divider/scratch compass
  • Lets you draw guidelines an even distance from edges
  • Craft store compasses may work, but you'd want to ensure that they are pointed enough to mark a line
• Stitching chisels
  • Get a 2-tooth and one with lots of teeth - a full set is nice, but not as necessary
  • Also called "pricking irons"
  • Use these with your cutting board, not your cutproof mat
  • You can also use a combination of a marking wheel and awl, but this will be slower and you won't be able to punch out 6-9 stitches at once
• 2 Blunt tip needles
• Waxed polyester thread
  • I use 0.8mm thickness
• Lighter (you don't need a link

Saddle stitch

I recommend watching How to Saddle Stitch in addition to reading my single-page overview. Particularly useful is his method of securing the thread to the needle (I just didn't have the space to cover this).

1. Pre-punch holes
2. Thread needles on both ends
3. Thread through first hole
4. Needle 1 through next hole
5. Follow with needle 2. Pull existing thread to the side to avoid piercing it
6. Pull tight with even tension
7. Repeat

To finish, stitch backwards for a few stitches. Trim ends short. Melt. Flatten by rubbing against metal end of lighter.

Page 8: Rivet

One end of the rivet sits in the bowl of the anvil. The other end caps on and is nested in the setter, which is then hit with a mallet (or maul).

A basic setter and anvil has an anvil that is larger than the rivet.

• Good: works with multiple rivet sizes; cheap and common
• Bad: hard to set evenly

My preference is a fixed-size setter and anvil. The anvil is sized to the rivet cap size.

• Good: better looking and easier

• Bad: only one size of rivet; often higher quality which raises the price

• Basic double-cap rivets, setter, and anvil set

• Fixed-size setter and anvil; paired double-cap rivets